January 2008 including some of late last years experimental setups.
Starter motor expired so a new 10 Hp dc motor and base plate were installed, the idea being to start the engine, control the speed and feed power back into the batteries via a motor controller. The field coils were wrong so it's only recently that replacements have arrived so the plate has been changed around.
At present engine starting is handcrank until a motor controller and belt arrive.
Old position New position
The beginnings of an automatic stop system is also taking shape. When complete a thermostat will monitor the engine temperature. If the temperature exceeds 110 degrees C then the engine will stop. An outside emergency stop button will also be fitted. This is being accomplished with a stop solenoid.
Suitable bracket made to hold solenoid with extended rack end steel push plate.
Switch fitted shown in engine stop position. Engine on position
Trial 12vdc decompressor solenoid fitted. A 24vdc one is needed but this was fitted as a trial. Eventually it will be linked to the rack solenoid by timer. As the 10 hp dc motor spins the engine up to speed after a preset time the solenoids will energise so engine will start. That's the theory !!
Disaster struck with the rack solenoid burning out but the new motor controller with associated cables has been fitted. The controller is now in a process of undergoing a test period with the software parameters being changed to suit the engine with this particular belt arrangement. It may be necessary to swap over to the other flywheel to obtain a higher motor speed as the field coils within the motor are getting a little too warm. So far the dc motor starts the engine, maintains the output voltage on the ST 7.5Kw generator within 2Hz but I'm working on the regenerative braking side as the output current is still too high.
March 2008 saw two new Flat Plate Heat Exchangers fitted. The first on the engine to replace the existing one which fractured, the other to couple directly to the house central heating. It was found that the heat up time in the 250 litre solar tank was rather long so the output of the engine is now split into two circuits.One circuit is used in the shed to heat the veg oil, the other circuit goes through the new FPHE then through the solar tank lower coil. The FPHE heats the central heating circuit up much quicker than extracting the heat from the tank but the tank still gets heated and is used when the temperature is about 45°C.
Due to the draft from the nearby flywheel I decided to fit an electrical injection line heater to raise the temperature even more.
I've had this nichrome wire kit for some years from California, it's designed for multiple cylinder vehicles so it's a bit too long.
